SUPER Simple Concrete Garden Boxes – PART 2 – Cast the Panels

SUPER Simple Concrete Garden Boxes – PART 2 – Cast the Panels

SEE PART 1 of this series: https://youtu.be/9kga9jSG7Gs
Make your own Concrete Garden Boxes with these simple wooden forms! Follow along with this detailed 2 part tutorial. Build the forms and cast your own strong, long-lasting concrete panels that join together to make the ultimate in durable garden boxes. This is THE DIY version of these forms as very few tools are required. I’ll make the easiest, simplest, and cheapest form yet. This is a two part series.

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#gardening #concrete #gardenbox

50 Comments

  1. Rolling Thunder on September 21, 2021 at 11:26 pm

    I liked the decorative rescess you had on your first panel. As soon as I can I will build several for my garden. Thank you!

  2. Wickus Saunders on September 21, 2021 at 11:29 pm

    What is the dimensions of the panels in mm? I want to build a 50m raised bed .Your design seems to be what I am after.We use old transformer oil for both our steel and wooden molds as a release agent. It works very well.It also doesnt discolore the concrete finish.We normally manufacture pre cast wall panels and posts for residential walls. We do have a textured brick finish that is a silicone mold and we do color those panels. I am going to use one of my silicone molds cut it to size and apply it to your design and see how it turns out. I will send you a picture once we are done. We are based in South Africa. http://www.eccrete.co.za

  3. neels scheepers on September 21, 2021 at 11:29 pm

    Thank’s for your great video’s. My aircrete attempts keeps collapsing even after trying a foaming agent and other types of cement. Maybe my mixing ratios is wrong.

  4. Christopher on September 21, 2021 at 11:32 pm

    Awesome videos! How long before the panels are fully cured? Can you stack them while they are curing, or will that damage them? Thanks for making these videos!

  5. Кирилл Артамонов on September 21, 2021 at 11:35 pm

    Идея, конечно, хороша, но реализация ни о чем. Насколько Хватит такой конструкции большой вопрос. Никакого армирования, а материал то хрупкий и рассыпятся его грядки года через 3. Даже Не заморачивайтесь. А видео заслуживает dislike.

  6. erich on September 21, 2021 at 11:37 pm

    What if you tried a fairly rigid inlay for the corners – think stainless or brass tubing – then wrap stainless wire from one end to the other and use a tourniquet / twist-tie kind of action to put that wire under some decent tension. Leave the tube in the final casting and now your entire block is under compression since the wire transfers the force into the tubes. Even if the far edge chipped off, the tube would still be pulled into the concrete and wouldn’t come off.

    Maybe you could get away with galvanized bailing wire if it was sufficiently covered in concrete? I’d be a bit worried about water ingress along the pipe eventually causing the pre-tensioned wire to fail, hence the knee-jerk "stainless!"

  7. Davin Stewart on September 21, 2021 at 11:39 pm

    When you apply the caulk, couldn’t you put plastic wrap or non-stick spray on the sides to prevent the caulk from sticking to them? That way it wouldn’t peel off when you disassemble the form and you could re-use the caulk multiple times. Just a thought.

  8. Rodney Magee on September 21, 2021 at 11:39 pm

    I would have thought you would have carefully measured the colorant to ensure color consistency between panels.

  9. David Sewing on September 21, 2021 at 11:40 pm

    Is it worth the extra expense to use concrete with fiberglass reinforcing in it? cost is a little less than double for the concrete. I have 4′ long boxes which take a little less than one 80 lb bag of concrete. I think I can pour 4 boxes with 3 bags, not tried this yet.

  10. eli calahan on September 21, 2021 at 11:40 pm

    Would be awesome to put a curvature on the ends so you could snake a retaining wall or to follow landscaping and structures for flower gardens or vegetable gardens!!

  11. MyRetiredHobbies Gainesville on September 21, 2021 at 11:41 pm

    Great video, you did a fantastic job. Thanks for sharing.

  12. ankhubuntu on September 21, 2021 at 11:42 pm

    whoa! How did u move so fast from 8:55 until 09:27? I’ve never seen anybody move like that before that wasn’t an agent.

  13. Sylvan dB on September 21, 2021 at 11:43 pm

    I liked leaving the 1/2in PVC pipe in the concrete. And I think some reinforcing is needed, at least the glass fiber.

  14. Jel Boy on September 21, 2021 at 11:43 pm

    I love your videos Kent, they’re so easy to understand and follow. While I was watching the Part 2 of the Super Simple Concrete Garden Boxes, I wondered if you’d considered using a Quick Release Toggle Latch Clamp on the corners of the forms to aid removal of the cast instead of taking them apart when the cast is stuck ? Just an idea (or thinking out loud) !!

  15. Frederick Magill on September 21, 2021 at 11:43 pm

    Many thanks for sharing your work with us. I will attempt to make such panels. I only hope I can match your skill and expertise when I make my attempt. Once again many thanks.

  16. Sylvan dB on September 21, 2021 at 11:43 pm

    A couple more ideas: concrete mailbox post, and something a bit more tricky would be concrete fence post for a rail fence.

  17. Roger Stradley on September 21, 2021 at 11:44 pm

    I’m sitting here in HD, not sure which cóncrete weight you used, the bags lóoks like 30# all they have is 60 and 80? 60№ half a bag? I have your plans, thanks can’t wait to build these.

  18. Curt Dunlap on September 21, 2021 at 11:44 pm

    I’ve been watching your vids on garden box forms with great interest from the first one. I’ve had many questions which I have been able to answer on my own just by watching, but there are two right now that are more for advice than anything.
    1. Would it be worth the added expense to use pressure treated lumber for the forms?
    (Think I know the answer already – It’s pressure treated! Less is best!)
    2. I liked the idea of leaving the pvc pipe in the pin hole because I think it would protect the concrete from the rebar damaging it, especially if one should decide to move the box to other locations. Wives can be indecisive. What kind of adhesive will bind pvc to concrete? I’d hate to drive the sleeve into the ground with the pin!
    (I answered my own question. I just didn’t think it through! You can put a section of pvc in the new forms while inserting the tubing through the form frame. That may even make it easier to remove those tubing pins from the form to extract the panel.)
    Thanks for the vids! I found using landscaping timbers to be getting more and more expensiver! (and treated!)
    (I like the new easier design. Now getting ready to build and cast! Thanks again!)

  19. Erlpen2016 on September 21, 2021 at 11:46 pm

    if i use 2×4’s cut them to size to fit whatever length i need then place the form on a piece of plastic on a cemented area(like a patio area) pour concrete on top, use some rebar for strength and also use screws to join all the sides( like the ones that are used when pouring house foundations to join to walls) would this work as an alternative to having to build forms? i’ve seen cement workers form concrete counter tops for outdoor kitchens this way ….and of course use oil and screws to separate the form from the concrete…

  20. MeMeCe DIY - మీకు మీరే చేసుకోండి on September 21, 2021 at 11:46 pm

    Can we make garden pots out of this material, TIA

  21. Randall Quiring on September 21, 2021 at 11:48 pm

    I like the removable dowel idea in this form but I think I would use it to hold the 1/2" pvc tube and wire you used in the previous versions.

  22. Tony B on September 21, 2021 at 11:49 pm

    To help release the set concrete from the form build the form so the sides have a very slight taper.

  23. barichter on September 21, 2021 at 11:50 pm

    I am thinking about making simple boxes for bamboo. They would be about 12-24" in height, about 12-18" wide and 3-4′ long. Do you think it would be easier to pout an entire box at one time, or perhaps adapt your designs with ultra-narrow end pieces? What do you think? Thanks.

  24. Drippin94 on September 21, 2021 at 11:54 pm

    I’m excited to see the strength test on these bad boys

  25. norm graham on September 21, 2021 at 11:54 pm

    metal electrical conduit, might add more strength instead of pvc. They are also cheaper right now. Go figure.

  26. Peter Altavista on September 21, 2021 at 11:55 pm

    MaT – I really enjoy your vids; thanks for sharing. Please consider applying your considerable expertise to building a walipini. These are earth-insulated greenhouses that provide a much extended growing season with minimum to no additional heat input other than the energy provided via passive solar and ground heat. Your concrete boxes and concrete formed structural elements would work well in this environment. This seems like the kind of project you would enjoy.

    To make a more durable concrete mix, consider the addition of a pozzolan such as fly ash, metakaolin, or VCAS (vitrominerals) and also an acrylic binding agent. One advantage to using CSA is that you can use citric acid as retardant to get additional working time. If interested, check out dperry428 on YT. His work is awesome, and he is very interactive, providing lots of additional details in the comments section. Best to you!

  27. r. p. on September 21, 2021 at 11:58 pm

    I used 1/2 inch copper pipes then secure the panels with 3/8 rebar, works great. also added another form for the backing filling the form from the top, now I am using these 8 feet sections as a fence with a pattern on both sides. I can’t dig any holes so my fence zig zag at 45 degree and added a flower pot between each corner, looks fantastic and the whole fence is moveable if needed. Thanks for the inspiration.

  28. зема on September 21, 2021 at 11:59 pm

    Super

  29. Roy Marable on September 22, 2021 at 12:00 am

    Great improvement. What about the wire mesh? Would it make it stronger and longer lasting.?

  30. A D on September 22, 2021 at 12:00 am

    I think the Rebar for stacking these panels is the better way to do it, and the way you’ve used the pipes in these simplified molds is probably the best way you’ve made it so far. The dowels in V2 as locator pins is problematic. Have you considered making a much taller panel out of a plywood base and dimensional lumber sides? I did a google search and noticed there’s a company in Nanaimo that is building panels in a similar design but much taller (about 2’x36" wide).

  31. LastingBuild on September 22, 2021 at 12:01 am

    Almost to 100K! Incredible work buddy!

  32. Beverlyn Redona on September 22, 2021 at 12:02 am

    Thank you very much for your amazing ideas, to tell you, the whole idea is contagious in a way that I can’t wait to go back to gardening provided my husband makes me planters at least similar to what you are fabricating, he said it is illegal to copy somebody’s work as it is patented. Pls advise if you are selling your fabricated form or pattern. I would appreciate very much if you can advise me, thank you, Becerlyn

  33. flemming engel on September 22, 2021 at 12:06 am

    smear the molds in vaseline

  34. chris e on September 22, 2021 at 12:06 am

    I’m a little surprised nobody sells panels similar to those. Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge with us. 🙂

  35. Matthew Cuba on September 22, 2021 at 12:06 am

    I like this simplified solution. I have two question if you have a moment. 1. Did you do anything differently on the second casting to make those pop out easier? 2. Do you have any long-term data/info on these panels (and the other formulations) holding up to rain/snow/heat/cold cycles? Thank you for another excellent instructional video. Well done!

  36. Gene Velis on September 22, 2021 at 12:09 am

    Could you please provide a material cost price comparisons for a 4’ x 8’ raised bed 1 layer vs equivalent size of a bed made of cinder blocks and also wood?

  37. Joe Novello on September 22, 2021 at 12:11 am

    Another great video. I like the simplified plans and will be using this version with reinforcing wire mesh for my garden. One note: the shop teaching in me cringes every time you snap the tape measure closed. That shortens the life a lot and makes the end tab become inaccurate as the rivet hole elongates with each snap. Thanks for the series – I really enjoy watching and learning from you.

  38. rksando1 on September 22, 2021 at 12:11 am

    Here are a few ideas.

    Use surgical tubing over the nail instead of plastic pipe. After the concrete sets, pull the nail then the surgical tubing should pull out easily because it contracts when stretched.

    Use longer screws to assemble then all you have to do is loosen them to separate the form from the concrete.

    If rounded ends are desired so that boxes can be assembled into shapes such as hexagons, cut some pvc pipe and add it at the ends. Or use a diamond masonry blade on a 4-1/2 grinder to trim the ends.

  39. Ricardo Della-Ricca on September 22, 2021 at 12:12 am

    Great creation. I stumbled across your videos not long ago. As a suggestion: If you need a better release agent, I recommend using a Silicone Spray. You will get a better result to the oil spray. Regards from the Blue Mountains Australia.

  40. Aaron Ellis on September 22, 2021 at 12:12 am

    Thank you very much for these ideas. Newbie question here…can you use the CSA Mortar Mix with these forms? And I really appreciate the detail you give in your videos.

  41. Sloanirrigation on September 22, 2021 at 12:12 am

    There has to be some material you can coat the entire thing in. The make plastic moulds right? Something the the concrete would slide right out of? Given a microscopic angle of slide? Also, easier to build a square mould and slide a solid block of wood in for your offset. Place pvc pipe and leave it for pins. Less screws and aggravation

  42. Bryan Tull on September 22, 2021 at 12:13 am

    I just got done binge watching all your videos on this. I personally like the thicker heavier panels you started with as I’d imagine the move around less with planting or just use. Have you ever tried to fancy them up a bit more? I’ve read some good reports of people just adding moldings to their frames when casting the concrete. Something like the below link inside the middle field…or a rope boarder on the top/bottom
    amazon.com/dp/B077XFX2HZ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_DSEMHMV6H01XJ171BN3V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 amazon.com/dp/B0936X165M/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_KF36K0MJ57VE22RKWN4D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

  43. Lorri LaQue on September 22, 2021 at 12:16 am

    Would like to see the panels stacked for higher bins?

  44. Tim Tation on September 22, 2021 at 12:16 am

    Have you considered making your alignment holes just big enough for rebar or the spike and cutting the plastic tubing to fit the gap inside the tabs/wings? That way you can slide the spike out and the tube stays in the concrete, but you can still pop it out of the mold without disassembly (and still do the wire coil reinforcement if you choose). I’ve been wondering about thet since your very first design… Which I really like the insets BTW, (they look really nice and can be totally customized).

    Another idea is to mold in copper. Copper repels slugs and snails (but needs to be at least 2 inches wide so they can’t arch over it). Gardening stores sell really expensive copper tape with an adhesive side, but it never adheres very well (to any raised bed materials and is thin and fragile). I was thinking you slice open a copper pipe length wise, roll it flat and wide, and you could mold it right into the concrete (if the strip covers the 3 exterior sides, it would be continuous, all around the perimeter). You could even get fancy and router a shallow horizontal dado for the copper or just let it inset in the concrete (just make sure it matches/aligns with the copper strips on other panels. It could also look really sweet once it gets a green patina on it.

    Anyway… I’m enjoying your videos, You Rock!!!

  45. Kent Hegwood on September 22, 2021 at 12:18 am

    You did a great job on the boxes and instructional videos! A video idea I had for you is to create the boxes so they had some sort of a bottom. That way they could be used on a porch or deck.

  46. Xavier M on September 22, 2021 at 12:20 am

    Nice series, I watched it until the end. I have a suggestion I don’t know if will be helpful, but I am thinking of the process to disassemble every uncast and the process to unscrew the side panel. My suggestion to use hinges in the side panel instead of unscrewed. To keep them together use Slide Latch Lock and keep using the latex.

  47. Alpha Broder on September 22, 2021 at 12:20 am

    Purchased your plans after I built my first box’s wanted to say thank you for your creativity

  48. Tunnelrat6666 on September 22, 2021 at 12:21 am

    Do you know if the concrete panels will change the ph in the soil as the lime may leak into the soil? Would there be any other chemicals that could leach out into the soil as I am thinking of doing this for my vegetable garden.

  49. Craig Hatch on September 22, 2021 at 12:21 am

    Thank you, I enjoy your videos.

  50. We need hope Thank you on September 22, 2021 at 12:25 am

    Thank you, I will be using your form, very nice and you have simplified it so well.

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